Yesterday we went for a small walk through National Park. But we spent a lot of time just sitting at first point watching the surfers. Surfing has never interested me, but I wanted to have a go at shooting these blokes way out with my new zoom lens. But watching these guys for over an hour was amazing. They were all really good, but there were a couple that really stuck out and were
gnarly. Do we still use the word gnarly? Anyway, these guys were awesome- 'dropping in', 'hanging ten' and "carvin' it up"!! ;) It's something I'm definitely going to do again (spectate that is) and maybe one day even give it a go!
"I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
Captain James Cook, 1778
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